48 Hours in the Townships—Khayelitsha

About 40km from Cape Town lies the township of Khayelitsha, which means "New Home." It is located after Soweto, in the Gauteng province, near Johannesburg, the second biggest township in South Africa. About 1.5 million people live here, of whom many in shacks and similar inadequate housing.

Despite the poor living conditions and the high levels of poverty and crime, Khayelitsha is a very interesting place to visit. Amongst the highlights:

* Lookout Hill. You will have a fabulous view of Khayelitsha and the Cape Flats (the geographical area where many of Cape Town’s townships were build), with Table Mountain in the distance.

* Philani Center. One of the most successful community projects that focuses on empowerment of the unemployed, health care, and good health care.

* Golden's Flowers... From Trash to Art.

* Great B&Bs.

Quick Tips:

What ever you do, try to stay over in Kopanong Bed & Breakfast. It is a fabulous place with a great host.

Thope Lekau is one of the many interesting, strong and warm women I have met during my trip through the townships. She empowers, inspires, and motivates everyone around her with her vibrant personality and super strong inner strength. She is a true icon, an example for the younger generations.

Best Way To Get Around:

As I said in my other township journal, the best way to get to Khayelitsha is by booking a township tour. Driving, especially when you are not familiar with the area, is not a good idea.

Of the two nights I spent in the townships of Cape Town, I spent the last one in Kopanong B&B in Khayelitsha. Here, a woman by the name of Thope Lekau is in charge, one of the strongest and most beautiful people I have met so far.
Lekay, a registered tour guide, started her B&B years ago. "It made me sad to see that most township tour operators drove visitors through the townmships without giving them a chance to interact with us, and to really see what township life is all about," she said while sharing a 0.75 liter bottle of Castke Beer. "Khayelitsha is not a zoo! I stepped up to tour operators and told them they could stop at my house for a drink or for lunch. Later, I decided to turn my home into a B&B."

Kopanong, which means "Meeting place" in the Xhosa language, consists of two rooms with private bathrooms. Breakfast consists of fruits, yogurts, milk, cereals, toast and preserves, juice, tea, and coffee.

I strongly advise you to order dinner, as Mpho—who runs Kopanong together with Thope Lekau—is a brilliant cook!

When you drop the topic township bed-and-breakfast in Cape Town, most people immediately refer to Vicky's B&B. This was the first township stay in Khayelitsha.

Here, in the heart of the township’s shack land, you spend the night in a shack made out of tree trunks, corrugated steel plates, wood, and plastic.

I desperately wanted to meet Vicky, because in my opinion it takes a lot of guts to start a bed-and-breakfast in an area that isn't exactly touristy. I hoped for great stories and brilliant chats with a wonderful and incredibly nice and warm lady—she has been described as such by most who have written about Vicky.

It was one big disappointment.

In contrary to Mama Thandi from Ma Neo B&B, or Thope Lekau From Kopanong—also in Khayelitsha—Vicky remained in her chair when I came in to introduce myself. No warm welcome, no enthusiasm, no "Thanks for coming". Nothing. She remained in her seat in front of a switched-on TV. She reluctantly shook my hand and, in a quick, monotone and almost apathetic way, she gave me a very brief summary about the hows and the whens with regards to her B&B. Without looking at me or trying to make conversation.

Despite the fact that I am still very curious about how it is to spend the night in shack, and feel the wind and rain coming through the roof, I'd rather go to Ma Neo in Langa. Or to Kopanong.

Not because these B&B’s are made out of solid building materials, but simply because the hosts of these B&B's were incredibly friendly. Look, I am not expecting anyone to jump for joy when I knock on their doors. But a bit of enthusiasm is not too much to ask for I reckon. The industry isn't called 'hospitality industry' for nothing.

During my 48-hour township tour through Langa, Gugulethu, and Khayelitsha I have met many great, inspiring, and strong people. Golden is one of them, a man who decided to take his future in is his own hands, by making beautiful flowers out of cans. His heartwarming story, is one of inner strength and determination, one that isn’t easily forgotten.

I met Golden in his small, brightly coloured workshop in the heart of the Khayelitsha Township, while he was making a daisy out of a Coca Cola can. I saw flowers everywhere I looked: daisies, roses, massive sunflowers, and more. All for sale, from R15 (about €2.50/$3.00) for a small daisy to R40 (about €5.50, $7.00) for a 30cm hand painted sunflower.

Golden decided to make flowers from cans when he found himself unemployed, while he had an entire family that depended on him. Over the years, due to the increase of township tourists, Golden’s business grew considerably. Recently, an American woman contacted him asking him to make 1000 flowers.

With his artwork, Golden also contributes to Khayelitsha in two ways: to both the waste problem, and to poverty in his community. "I ask children to bring me cans they find on the streets. I pay them 20 cents for a small can, and 60 cents for a big one."

You can find Golden in the Khayelitsha Township. As I do not have his number, I kindly ask you to contact me in case you need more information.

During the second day of my 48 hours in the townships I visited the Philani Nutrition and Development Project in the township of Khayelitsha, a great community project that truly makes a difference in the lives of many people living in the township.

Philani Center, involved in malnutrition, child health care, empowerment and employment, and AIDS prevention, was established in 1979 in the informal settlement or squatter settlement of Cross Roads. Back than, Cross Roads was a small settlement, but over the years it has glued itself to Khayelitsha. Here, the living circumstances are heart breaking: Poverty is sky high, most people live in shacks, and everyone depends upon communal taps. Sanitary facilities consist of toilets with the so-called bucket system. Do I need to say more? The streets are plastered with plastic bags and garbage; the perfect ingredients for major health problems.

Philani tries to improve the situation, and I must say they are doing a great job. They promote good child health and adequate nutrition to prevent child malnutrition. They rehabilitate underweight children to normal nutrition and good health while empowering their mothers and teaching them basic life and employments skills. For instance, the Philani center teaches unemployed women weaving skills and fabric printing.

I have seen the most beautiful creations while I was there, and I will definitely go back to get some rugs for my flat. Or maybe even a hammock for on my balcony. Who knows. The best thing of it all is that the women don’t have to worry about where to leave their children, as the Philani has a day care center where the children can play in safety.

Yes, in the townships you see a lot of despair and sadness. Sometimes it all seems hopeless, until you stop by at an organization such as Philani in Khayelitsha.