Over the Sea to Skye

We spent 3 days on the Isle of Skye. We did not attempt to tour the entire Isle, but relaxed at the Kinloch Lodge and toured the Trotternish peninsula and Sleat area.

Most visitors will get to the Isle by the Skye bridge, or the ferry which leaves from Mallaig and docks at Armadale. But for a more eye-popping entry, we took the Glenelg ferry. The road to the ferry goes over Glen Shiel, is one lane wide, and winds down the mountainside to the sea. The ferry itself holds four vehicles. In our case, four vehicles plus three motorcycles that squeezed on. We got out of our vehicle to watch the tide rushing around the ferry as we crossed. Incredible as it seems, cattle used to be herded across the water. One wonders how many were swept out to sea.

From the landing, we made a detour to the Kylerhea otter hide where you can try to see the shy animals. None showed themselves when we visited but we saw a lot of seals.

Most of our time on Skye was spent around Kinloch Lodge enjoying activities in the area. There are walks on forestry roads, which start just behind Kinloch and provide some stunning views of the sea and the mainland. It eventually leads to an old abandoned crofters settlement called Leitir Fura. There are interpretive plaques along the way that explain both historical and natural sights. The road goes on to the landing for the Glenelg ferry, but there are many points to turn and make a circular walking trip.

For anyone interested in "bagging Munroes," that is, hiking mountains of over 3,000 feet, the southern area of Skye has plenty of challenges; most notably, the Cullin mountains.

Quick Tips:
A trip up the Trotternish Peninsula, the eastern side of Skye, provides some very dramatic scenery. There are the basalt formations of Storr and the distinctive pillar called the Old Man of Storr. Further north is the moody Quirang area, with unusual geological formations resulting from an extinct volcano and where some of the third Harry Potter movie was filmed. There is also the falls and sheer rock face of Kilt Rock where the different layers of geological formations make the rock face look like a tartan. On the western side of the peninsula, you can see nearby islands.

The Trotternish peninsula also has sites of historical interest, including the re-creation of a historic highlander village, the ruins of Duntulm Castle, and Flora MacDonald's grave and monument in memory of this woman who help Bonnie Prince Charlie flee the British soldiers after the battle of Culloden. Up the mountainside, on the western side of the peninsula, we could see some standing stones; remnants of a stone circle, like a small version of Stonehenge but without the lintels.

North of Sleat is the town of Broadview, and further north along the eastern coast of the isle is the main town of Portree. Both are good for jewelry, woolens, and other souvenir shopping.

Best Way To Get Around:
The bus service is infrequent, and the taxis are best booked in advance. Many visitors opt to drive themselves. We chose a private tour guide. While this was more expensive than other transportation options, it allowed everyone to take in the sights instead of driving or navigating. Our guide, who was local, was also a helpful source of information. If you decide to drive, you should be aware of the challenges of the one-lane roads with the lay-bys for you or oncoming cars. Most of the roads we encountered were a single, narrow lane.

Kinloch Lodge is located on the southern end of the Isle of Skye. It is run by Lord and Lady MacDonald. There are two buildings which make up Kinloch Lodge. The original building, the Lodge, was one of the hunting lodges of the MacDonalds. A newer building, Kinloch, was built to increase accommodation at this justly highly rated hotel.The location is romantic, next to Loch Na Dal, which translates as the Devil's Loch. The Loch is a sea inlet with powerful tides. The trees and hills which surround Kinloch Lodge make you feel you are away from it all.Inside the original Lodge, the rooms vary in size and configuration but all are decorated in a homey country style. We had three of the most modestly priced rooms, and the amount of space varied. Some of the rooms with higher rates were very roomy. We found the beds very comfortable and the rooms very clean and fresh. The bathrooms are supplied with local Isle of Skye soap, and shortbread cookies await with the coffee and tea making supplies. Windows can be opened and views are either of the loch, or the sea.The real draw of Kinloch Lodge is Lady Claire MacDonald, a famous chef. Meals at the Kinloch Lodge are some of the best to be had in all of Scotland. Breakfast is a huge affair with everything from porridge to kippers, as part of the full Scottish breakfast. Lunch is available but not included in the price of the room. Dinner, however, is included and is another lavish meal. Each morning, guests are given the dinner menu and asked to select their choices for starters, mains, and sweets and can also make a wine selection from the very respectable cellar. Local produce is well represented and prepared to perfection.

We stayed for three nights and every meal was heavenly. You can start dinner by going to one of the drawing rooms for a pre-dinner libation. The rooms are tastefully decorated and filled with attractive items belonging to the MacDonalds. What I found most fascinating were the family pictures, which include Lord MacDonald dancing with the Queen! Meals were served in the beautiful dining room.The staff at Kinloch Lodge are outstanding. They are all very friendly, professional, and helpful.It is possible to dine at Kinloch Lodge even if you are not staying as a guest, and there's a gift shop full of wonderful food items made a Kinloch Lodge such as fudge sauce, as well as Lady MacDonald's cookbooks, and local craft items.The price was not cheap because it included breakfast and dinner, but once the quality of the food is considered, this is very good value. I cannot recommend this place highly enough.