Bali by Bus

Albeit not pleasant, but a highlight was our trip to Singarajah , Bali's old capital city. The presidential election results drew severe rioting as the favored Megawati did not win. Several buildings were burned. We saw extensive damage and for safety reasons, we stayed on the bus.

Along more pleasant lines, the trip to Alas Kedaton was pure joy ! Read about it here .Shopping was always great but at times, it became suffocating as the peddlers hawked the buses on arrival and departure.I enjoyed the educational aspect of the tours when I understood the guides. Another wonderful moment was when we had to stop on the road to let an entire caravan of people on their way to a ceremony.

The visit to the traditional village introduced us to the infrastructure of Balinese life. See detailed journal HERE . Tanah Lot was more hype than it deserved; although we did enjoy sharing our table with another couple and watch the famous sunset.

Seaside lunch at Lovina Beach was interesting and different.

Quick Tips:

After having been to Bali, I believe that a bus tour is a must if you are interested in more than acquiring a tan. Don't forego your own extended touring of those areas that beckon for your return, and believe me, if Ubud doesn't accomplish that, one of us needs to have their vision checked. All bus companies have comparable day and half day trips. Since our program had 5 tours included in the price; it was adequate, as you could tour one day, and rest on the next. You will find yourself doing a tremendous amount of walking, oftentimes uphill. And full day tours get you back at the hotel sometimes past 8:30pm and all you'll think about are sore muscles and a cool bed. Ensure that your proposed itinerary covers the important areas northeast of Ubud, directly north and southeast. The Western part is largely unexplored as I imagine there is nothing worth seeing from an educational standpoint. At the moment, if you are thinking of traveling to Bali, check the web site for the State Department, as Indonesia has experienced some unrest and violence as a result of the 9/11 incident in the United States.

Best Way To Get Around:

For this particular journal, BUS!

For other journals on Bali, go to:

Ubud - An Unquenchable Thirst

Ubud Unforgettable Haven

Tuban: Gateway to Bali

Then There was Bali

It's quite an interesting process, except that you need to know that Batik is not a traditional method of creating colored textiles and was imported at first from Java. As Javanese came to settle here, they brought the craft with them. You want to purchase real batik prints in a place such as this one, as most of what is sold on the street by vendors is not batik, but printed cloth used mostly for tablecloths.

Batik printing uses a resist method, much like marbleizing. What we witnessed here was a woman working on a wooden, hand operated loom using threads which are already dyed, and will form the design. She will weave the threads with plain warp; predominant color on almost all of the unoccupied looms was blue.

The Village of Gianyar has many of the best weavers on the island; it is also the most accessible and houses the best known factories for this craft. The workshop really doens't provide a tour, it's more like a do it yourself kind of thing. After which, they pointed us in the direction of their showroom which was simply humongous! Textiles in every possible form and shape, on hangers, neatly piled on shelving using every inch of wall space available; table cloths, lots and lots of shirts, ad infinitum. They did not however, have any of the block print or hand painted batiks which are so ubiquitous here, and in stores throughout the U.S. Block printed batik use soft colors and only on one side of the cloth; true batik which is referred to as batik tulis use more vibrant colors equally on both sides of the cloth. Printing on cotton is the most common, although polyester is in circulation in the markets as well. Some of the people on our tour were shopping with frenzy; others just walked around as I did inspecting the quality and feeling the materials.

We were usually given a time limit on such visits by the guides, and those of us who finished earlier would run into the bus and cool off our overheated bodies. Immediately after our visit here, we went into a rice field and I met my first rice husk. I picked it and it travelled with me all the way back to New York. We even picked up a wooden reproduction of a rice plant which sits on a shelf in the foyer.

Tanah Lot is linked to a series of sea temples on the south coast of the island; we had already seen one other which is UluWatu . The temple here has an almost surrealistic location: separated from the mainland and built on a promontory which can be accessed during low tide. Tourists are not permitted inside the temple. Legend has it that poisonous snakes live in the caves below it so as to "guard" it while another states that peaceful snakes reside in there; or if you prefer, a single huge snake dwells inside the cave undisturbed. This only serves to further the spot’s reputation as dangerous, while adding to its mystique.

When we got off the bus, we came upon a narrow pathway of cobblestones with all sorts of shops on both sides, waiting for tourists. One of the more poignant things I remember were the children, so tiny, and yet so well versed in peddling postcards and whatnots for one dollar, only one dollar .

As you get to the viewing area, there are tables and chairs all over, and naturally, everyone is jockeying for position to get the best view of the temple at sunset. We sat fairly close to the edge, and although I could see the caves, I did not spot any of the snakes.

Personally, I think there is way too much hoopla about this place and little substance. This does not diminish the temple’s standing as one of the 6 most important ones in Bali. It has its history traced to the 15th century when it is said to have been built by one of two priests. The name "Tanah Lot" means ancient land, or land of the south. There are beaches in the area, but not too many people as the majority come to see the temple and usually leave. Builders were trying to work with the government to allow them to put up some resorts in the area, as the regency of Tabanan is trying to establish itself as a draw. As of this writing, nothing has gone up yet.

We were joined by a young couple that had been here a bit longer than we had, and started to discuss the common places we had seen. They were serving food and beverages as well, and while our companions ate, Chuck and I had cold drinks. We had arrived while the sun was still bright, and waited patiently for sundown which is when the temple will look its most dramatic. Meanwhile, I could overhear from the crowd disagreements as to whether someone had spotted a snake, or many of them. As the sun came down, we took some photos, as did everyone else. The guides did not let us linger in the shops on the way back. If you need to make a choice between Tanah Lot and Uluwatu, choose the latter.

The Kintamani region is on every tour guide’s agenda. And one of the most breathtaking places to relish in the scenery is at crystal clear Lake Batur . Gunung Batur (gunung means mountain) is an active volcano and has wreaked havoc here more than once; the worst incident took place in 1926 when more than 1000 villagers died. There are tours that will take you to the top if you are ambitious, and it is recommended that you be accompanied by someone.

Do you ever think of a place that you’ve been to, and immediately associate something unpleasant to it, no matter how wonderful the rest of the visit might have been? Well, I did. The area around the lake and the temple is so great that I knew we’d be spending quite a while here. There were no restrooms to be found, and guess what? I needed one. Luckily, I thought, the Batur Garden Restaurant was right there, surrounded by glorious flower beds with promise of more to come. Chuck and I walked into the restaurant which was completely empty. I asked to use the restroom, and was categorically refused. As we were not scheduled to eat here, we offered to pay something for the use of the facilities; again, stubborn refusal. Eventually, they relented as we purchased a couple of drinks.

The waters of the lake are essential for irrigation to the rice fields which abound around the area. The lake as well as the mount are considered sacred to the Goddess of the Lake, Dewi Danu . From afar, one of the temple buildings looks as if is floating on the lake. It’s a totally amazing sight. Aside from the incredible riot of colors provided by the flowers, we had the pleasure of meeting some interesting creatures, not the least of which was a mongoose. I completely fell in love with him or her, and imagined having one as a pet. The mongoose had been brought to the garden area by his keeper or trainer, and he was rolling himself around the outside of his cage like a liquid pancake. There were 2 or 3 completely obnoxious birds who provided raucous sounds that were not particularly inviting. Another man came with his monkey, and by this time, monkeys might as well have been lovable puppies. This one had an earring on and was advancing rapidly through a slice of papaya. I kept a safe distance from the snake and his charmer. This is a great place to return and spend more time exploring. We did not stop at Penelokan which is considered the best spot overlooking the lake and the volcano as it lies close to the road which leads down to the caldera.

Klungung was the oldest kingdom on the island of Indonesia, and the former seat of the Javanese Hindu Kingdom from where the lines of royal blood emanate. It is reputed for its ceiling murals painted in the traditional wayang style: morality dictates the various punishments in hell and the rewards of going to heaven. The ceilings have been repainted at least 3 times in recent memory.

All that remains of this glorious kingdom today is a floating pavilion surrounded by lotus ponds and a garden which, surprisingly, are located right in the main intersection of town. History tells us that the rest of the kingdom was desroyed to the ground in 1908 during the royal mass suicide against the Dutch invaders.

The Klungung name means beauty and/or happiness. Its name evokes prestige and aristocracy; the town villages are charming and have been prize winners in Bali's most beautiful village competition, which is sponsored by the government.

Every 3 days, there is a market event in Klungung which offers the visitor handmade crafts like baskets, housewares, fruits, vegetables, flowers, spices, etc.

Across the way from the temple are fairly modern, several storied apartment buildings with shops on the main levels; you can see TV antennas on the building roofs. There is quite a bit of poverty to be witnessed on the streets as we met a very young mother with her child begging for food.

This is a historic site built on a natural wonder. Our private guide decided to take us here and wait for us in the car; there was a very nominal fee to get in, and you must enter with your legs covered, so Chuck had a sarong put around his waist and looked hilarious. There are signs who warn against menstruating women entering the temple illegally. As we made our way up the hill, a guide attached himself to us despite our protests. He claimed that he was going to protect me against the aggressive monkeys. He picked up a stick from the ground and forged ahead.

Uluwatu was not heavily visited that day, as it is in a remote area in southern Bali, but it offers the most spectacular view I have ever seen. After scaling your way up past winding dirt roads and makeshift rails to protect you from falling 250 feet, we finally got to the top. Souvenir tables with jade and marble religious figurines await you. When we looked down, we were speechless; the Indian Ocean kept licking the flanks of the rocks below, and then you look up and you think you've reached the end of the world.

We both sat in the grass as if trying to absorb the beauty through osmosis.

This temple and promontory is particularly sacred to fishermen, who come here to pray to the sea goddess Dewi Laut. The full name of the temple translates to "The Temple Above the Stone," which is exactly what it is. There were some younger German tourists who were tempting fate by going very close to the edge of the rock and I found them disturbing. When we were ready to make our way back, Mr. Guideman was trailing behind us. As we walked by the rails, suddenly, a young monkey darted from nowhere and removed the eyeglasses of a man who was totally stunned by the move. Everyone stopped in their tracks to see this to the end; one of the young local boys tried to bribe the monkey with pineapple pieces;.finally, he climbed over the railing into the rocky area and retrieved the glasses: applause! A few feet farther down, we saw another baby monkey sucking a milk bottle, undoubtedly stolen from an infant! They are adorable and very playful, but you need to be careful. Take off anything that they can get their paws on, including earrings, chains, glasses, etc.

Monkeys are sacred in Bali and as such are considered the guards of the Temple, so expect them to be around when you get here. If a guide latches on to you, be firm. He cannot show you anything that is not already there for you to see. When we reached the end of our tour, he asked Chuck for a $10 tip. I cannot report on the answer the guide received. Do come here though if you want out of this world emotions; you'll get them.

Panorama/Gray (PG) Tours’ headquarters is located in Sanur Beach which is about a 10 minute drive from Tuban . They greeted us at the airport with their very colorful bandanas and matching shirts; a vibrant mix of yellows, reds and blues. There were minor complications as we heard that some of the roads leading out of the airport had been blocked by rioters. The entire wait was a bit over an hour after landing. Not nearly soon enough, we were being shown to a small van that we boarded with another couple from South Africa.

This is when it gets hilarious or frustrating, depending on your level of fatigue. Remember, it takes 21 hours of flying to get here from New York, plus a 5 hour layover in Singapore, and a 90 minute stop in Frankfurt. As the driver made his way out of the airport, the guide turned to us and started speaking. I looked at him intently as I tried to decipher his English; Chuck had completely given up at the onset, convinced that we were being kidnapped somewhere. It’s good that the literature we received from them was printed in English. I want to thank the planners of the airport or the architects of the Bali Hai, whichever came first, for having made the distance between the two less than 10 minutes.

The next day, we had a call from a PG agent who was downstairs in our hotel’s lobby. She wanted to explain the whole tour thing to both of us, so down we went. There were 3 full day tours, and 2 half-day tours. You could actually pick and choose the tours and the days to go; they had so many people enlisted that it was not difficult to accommodate the requests. You had to be punctual; a mini air conditioned bus would always pick us up at the hotel and bring us to the office where people from the various hotels would converge, pick their tours and language preferences and would be assigned a bus number. I thought that was actually well done.

They offer complimentary coffee and tea to all the participants. The buses are fairly large and air conditioned which is nothing short of a blessing. The heat in Bali can get pretty brutal. You don’t get the same guide everyday, but some are more glib and give more information than others. If you select a tour, make sure it includes the following areas: Bedugul – Mengwi Temple, Pacung for lunch with wonderful view of rice terraces, Alas Kedaton with famed Monkey Forest and Tanah Lot with sea temple and snake cave; Kintamani – Barong dance in Batubulan, Celuk for silver, Ubud for artists; Besakih, biggest temple in Bali – Mas for wood carving, and batik weaving, Klungung – region of royalty with temple to name a few.

I’m not sure that Lovina Beach is all that it’s cracked up to be. We had just finished our tour of Bali’s ancient capital, Singaraja, which had been the object of riots, burning of buildings, looting,-all in the name of dissatisfaction over the winner of the presidential election. About 10 miles west of there, lies Lovina Beach with its black volcanic sand, and nary a dolphin in sight, the reason for which most people come here.

Our bus tour intended for us to stop here for lunch and not do any exploration of any kind; to add insult to injury, the lunch was pretty awful, despite the fact that we had an interesting view of the ocean, and eating in the open air is always a joyful experience. The water appears to be calm and fairly shallow; a woman peddler accosted me as I was wetting my feet and wanted to sell me saris at any cost. I positively refused although she continued to follow me as I dug my toes in the black sand, kicked up some water and ran back to our table to join the others.

Lovina is reputed for attracting water sportsmen (people if you prefer) who can do all the things I refuse to do such as as diving, snorkeling, and water skiing. The village itself is surrounded by rice paddies naturally, as well as fields; for commerce, there are shops who sell furniture and textiles complemented by the services provided by the hotel and restaurant industry.

I suppose if one were to wish to escape the pervasive touristy Kuta Beach to the South, this might offer a peaceful alternative. They indicated that parallel to the coast runs a long coral reef, so divers and snorkelers would certainly be tempted to come to Lovina. I would be hard pressed to recall the name of the restaurant that served us lunch, but consider that a blessing since I don’t really recommend the food here. It’s served buffet style, as customary, with bus tours and the food did not appear nor taste very fresh.

If you do come to Lovina for a few days, they do have some lovely hotels in the area that are very inexpensive due to the distance from Ngurah Rai airport in Tuban. Also in the area is a natural hot spring, a waterfall, a monkey temple and those are always fun, a traditional market and some ancient temples as well. The pictures below depict denizens of Bali waters.

I recommended the bus tours for the sheer amount of information you can gather if you are blessed with an intelligible guide. In most instances, we got lucky. Socio-economic conditions in Bali are less than adequate, unless you are an ex-pat, like so many Australians who now call this treasure island home.

The most interesting info came to us from our guide on the first half day tour: as we make our way through Denpasar , Bali’s capital city, we learn that it is the only area which offers potable water since this is the seat of the government (aka the hell with the populace). The population here falls short of a million at about 800,000; by comparison, Indonesia boasts 300 million people which is approximately the population of the United States. If you observe both land masses, you will quickly realize that space is at a premium here.

In 1980, some family control measures were instituted, but apparently no one is really paying much attention to them. The ruling goes that instead of the traditional four (twelve or more, in reality) children, you will now be entitled to only two. There are children everywhere who seem to number more than the temples. The guide tells us that there are over 1200 temples in Bali; the figure doesn’t take into account the fact that every family’s grandfather has his own temple. Ninety percent of the population of Bali is Hindu; the rest is a mixture of Moslems, Christians and "others".

The rivers and troughs which are built serve the general population’s need for water. They bathe in them quite openly and water for consumption must be boiled. Rice is as valuable as currency; each family grows its own rice and may or may not sell any leftovers to other villagers. Not nearly enough to grow for export. In fact, we are led to understand that the rice which is grown now originates in the Philippines. And the dogs! Too many dogs, most looking emaciated but nevertheless favored by the Balinese as keepers of the household.

Today is the festival of Saraswati , the goddess of knowledge, and ceremonies abound on Bali and will continue throughout the day. Women clad in the fanciest dress they own carry towers of fruit on their heads: our guide proudly reveals that these women can carry up to 90 kgs (about 178 lbs.) on their heads. This readily explains why we never see any women with bad posture or excess fat. A Balinese family works so as to enable its members to afford the cremation which awaits them at life’s end. If they are too poor to amass the sum necessary, then they are buried and their survivors can arrange for them to be part of a mass cremation which is cheaper.

There are no government services for the general population, i.e. medical allowances or even partial coverage for family members or the workers themselves. No pensions upon retirement, which also explains and supports the concept of extended family living. In general, I find the Balinese to be poor but very content, fervently religious, and always smiling.