DUMBO, Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass

Watch the sunset turn the gleaming towers of lower Manhattan to gold while drinking something exotic with a paper unbrella in it at the bar of the River Cafe.
Hear a live performance in the floating concert hall, Bargemusic.
Play with the interactive art in the Anchorage Gallery.
Pick out the famous buildings in the Manhattan skyline from under the Brooklyn Bridge.
Bring a picnic to eat while you listen to the waves hitting the shore of Fulton Ferry State Park.

Quick Tips:

Wear good walking shoes because some of the streets are cobbled, which makes them difficult to walk around on.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking is the best! A taxi can get you here; the last stop on the 61 bus is by the water. The High Street stop of the A & C trains is about two blocks away. And the Clark Street stop of the 2 & 4 trains are about four blocks away. But the only way to see all the subtle artist touches is to walk.

Jacques Torres makes elegant chocolates which are sold in gold foil covered boxes at boutiques in deluxe hotels. When he needed a new factory, he chose a street level loft space in Brooklyn. The landlord gave him an extra room for free with the provision that he add a retail shop so the people in the neighborhood could benefit from having a new neighbor.

The tiny shop has two tables with eight seats. It serves two kinds of hot chocolate ($3.) and three kinds of croissant (plain, chocolate, and almond)($2.-$3.). The classic hot chocolate is thick, creamy, and sweet, absolutely delicious. The spicy hot chocolate is as magical as that served in the movie Chocolate. I do not know if this recipe was what inspired the film or the other way around. But a cup of this ambrosial liquid is worth the trip to Brooklyn from anywhere. Likewise the croissants are light, flaky, and buttery. People come to the shop from all over the city to buy these pasteries.

On my most recent visit I sat at a table with a young Manhattan couple who had brought an out-of-town visitor for a sweet breakfast. I suggested some other sites they could see in the neighborhood, but they said no, they only had time to eat because as soon as they could they had to get back on the uptown train to make a Broadway matinee.

The shop also sells chocolates by the piece or box. 12 for $10. 25 for $20. They have a lovely photo brochure that lovingly describes each of the 30 kinds that they make. In addition to the usual caramel, marzipan, and fruit fillings, there are also exotic flavors like cinnamon and Earl Gray. It is hard to choose among them, but the friendly ladies with the paper hair covers give samples to the undecided. A photographic still from the Lucille Ball Show is taped to the wall; it shows Lucy wearing similar hair protection, while inefficiently working at a candy factory.

To get to the Jacques Torres Factory and Cafe take the A or C train to the High Street stop. Follow Cadman Plaza downhill as it curves and changes name to Old Fulton Street. At the last block before the water turn right onto Water Street. The name Water Street is deceptive. The street is the one nearest to the water but there are buildings that block the view. Walk two more blocks and look for the sign in the window.

Located between the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges, The Empire-Fulton Ferry State Park is less than a block wide and about a block and a half long. But here sound is more important than size. This green strip separates The East River from a row of Civil War Era warehouses; and the splash of the waves hitting the shore is amplified by the brick buildings.

Find an empty bit of grass, lay back, close your eyes, smell the salt scent of the sea; magically, you are no longer in the city. But when you look up there are the buildings of lower Manhattan, the gothic spire of the Woolworth Building, the statue of Civic Pride on top of The Municipal Building, and all the less distinctive glass and metal towers around them.

The park has lovely flowering plantings along its fences, picnic tables, and tree shaded benches on a wooden walkway.

During the summer there is an outdoor sculpture show. Much of the art is large and sturdy so kids and adults can climb on or into it.

Wedding photographers, TV shoots, and a variety of festivals use the park. One day last spring I was the total audience for a group of dancers creating a ritual to welcome the return of the sun. On another afternoon I was invited to join a picnicking klezma society. And occationally I find myself alone with the sound of the waves.

The last stop on the #61 bus is one block away from the park; the A or C trains stop at High Street which is three blocks away. During rush hours there is a ferry from the Wall Street that lands at a dock one block away. And of course you can walk across the Brooklyn Bridge from lower Manhattan.

Bargemusic is a wooden ferryboat that has been converted into a floating concert hall. It has extordinary acoustics and amazing views of the Brooklyn Bridge, The South Street Seaport, and the buildings of lower Manhattan. Occasionally the wake of a passing boat sends the vessel into gentle rocking movement.

Concerts are given on Thursday, Friday and Saturday at 7:30 and Sunday at 4:00. Tickets cost $30, but there are discounts for students and the elderly.

The #61 bus stops in front of the pier; the A or C trains stop at High Street which is two blocks away. During rush hours there is a ferry from the Wall Street that lands at the dock next to the barge. And of course you can walk across the Brooklyn Bridge from lower Manhattan.

The dock to which Bargemusic is permanently moored has been converted into a park. Be sure to notice the phrases from Walt Whitman's poem "Leaves of Grass" that are cast into the decorative and protective fence that edges the pier. Whitman was the editor of the Brooklyn Eagle newspaper that was published in large yellow brick building about a half block to the east. The building has the word "Eagle" on it and is now condo loft apartments.

The best time to go is on a Sunday afternoon when the sunset fills the big picture window behind the musicians.

The Anchorage is an experimental art and performance gallery run by Creative Time, Inc. during the summer. It occupies the inside of the monumental structure of brick and stone that anchors the Brooklyn Bridge, hence the name. The space itself is as interesting as any of the art that is displayed in it. Enormous, elegant arches support three to five story high curved ceilings.

The five to ten works of art displayed each summer are usually technologically innovative and interactive which delights kids and fascinates adults. For example there is usually at least one piece designed to change light or sound patterns based on the number or position of viewers.

During the day visiting the gallery space is free.

At night there are avant garde dance and music performances for which tickets are sold. Prices vary from $6 to $50 depending on the event.

The 61 bus stops in front of the gallery.
The A & C trains stop two blocks away at High St.
The 2 & 4 trains stop four blocks away at Clark St. The area around The Anchorage used to be a deserted industrial district of rusted and crumbling buildings, but in the last few years artists have been moving into the lofts and Civil War Era wearhouses. Trendy real estate agents have named the area DUMBO. And now there is a selection of restaurants and bars including a gourmet ice cream store in a former lighthouse, as well as Bargemusic, a floating concert hall, Fulton Ferry State Park, and numerous small galleries.

GAle GAtes et al. Gallery is everything a gallery should be. It is a corner building that has large glass windows on two sides. The two-story high front rooms are flooded with daylight, which is by far the best light for viewing traditonal oil paintings and stone sculptures to advantage. Upstairs there is intimate windowless space for avant garde works that are self-lit or require controlled lighting.

Even the stairways are used as display spaces. For the current exhibition the walls of the front staircase have been covered with textured foam. Pinpoint lights are aimed at angles that produced shadow images, which change as the viewer climbs the steps. The back stairs serve as a platform and/or bleachers from which to view video projections that are shown on a scetion of blank wall.

There is a membership collective for local artists. However shows featuring work by the collective alternate with theme-based curated shows of works created by outside artists. This means that the quality of the work shown is high while the styles, material, and content varies widely.

At night on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays the gallery presents experimental performances. These innovative workes include modern operas and enviormental or experiencial pieces in which the audience becomes part of the event. Many of the performers are well known in Europe, but just starting their American careers. While the gallery is free during the day, there is an entry fee for the performances. The prices vary, but are generally $12 on week nights and $15 on weekend nights. It is probably a good idea to call for information and reservations: 718 522 4597.

To get to the GAle GAtes et al. Gallery take the A or C train to the High Street stop. Follow Cadman Plaza downhill as it curves and changes name to Old Fulton Street. At the last block before the water turn right onto Water Street. The name Water Street is deceptive. The street is the one nearest to the water but there are buildings that block the view. Walk three short blocks to Main Street. The gallery will be directly in front of you.