Quote: The name of the island, Spinalonga, is Venetian, and means "long thorn . As I had recently read Victoria Hislop’s ‘The Island, ‘I was very interested in paying a visit to Spinalonga, which is the island of the title.

This is the story of Cretan family's hidden past which is set against the backdrop of the Second World War and the island of Spinalonga itself. The story is very much that of Spinalonga as a leper colony but is also a love story and is around the time of the German occupation of Crete.

The island of Spinalonga, or Kalidon as it is often shown on maps is a small island just off the north east coast of Crete. It was quite a long drive away from Rethymnon to just beyond Eloundra so we got up early – about 6.30 am had a quick breakfast and then left for our drive to Spinalonga.

We drove via Elounda the small town where they filmed where they filmed the TV series ‘Who pays the ferryman’ and then on to the small town of to Plaka and on the way we could clearly see two islands, the smaller of which was Spinalonga . Both islands are very close to the shore and within very easy swimming distance so you do wonder why the lepers that were fitter didn’t swim ashore. Lepers were sent to this island of misery from all over Greece not just places in Crete.

Plaka was the small fishing village on Crete where the main characters in the book lived. The fisherman in the book lived in Plaka and it was his little boat that took the lepers on their journey across to be isolated on the island of Spinalonga.

It was a bonus to be able to take a small boat over to the island from Plaka as I felt this was probably the same journey as the lepers had to make for all those years. The only thing was their journey was usually a one way trip. We paid 8 Euros each return for the short trip over to the island. On this small boat

Once on the island we bought entrance tickets at 2 euros each for the museum which was the entire island.

The whole island was a Byzantine fortress originally and won by the Greeks in the early 1200s.It was a very strategically important base for the Greeks for the next 400 years. Even today the huge fortifications still dominate this tiny rocky island .Its importance lay in the fact that it guards the entrance from the deep waters of the Cretan Sea into the sheltered and shallow bay.

From 1715 until the turn of the twentieth century Spinalonga was a settlement for the occupying Ottomans.

Its saddest time in history was from 1903 until 1957 when it was used as a leper colony. This was the history period of the island that I was interested in having read the story based on this period. Unfortunately most of the buildings of the leper colony have been destroyed as they were considered unsightly and also I think they were a bit a shamed about this part of the island’s history.

There were two entrances to Spinalonga, one being the lepers' entrance, which we walked through on the other side of the island to the one we arrived on. This was a tunnel known as Dante's Gate because the patients did not know what was going to happen to them once they arrived. Once the unfortunate lepers arrived all they were given was a ration of food, water, medical attention every couple of weeks from a visiting doctor and social security payments.

The island developed its own shops and there was a hospital and some people formed a sort of community governing body to negotiate with the main Greek government for things such as their benefits and medical attention.

The lepers also destroyed some of the ancient buildings as they used the stones to make their houses. They also destroyed part of the walls because they were unable to get to the sea and catch fish to supplement their diet or even just cool off in the sea in summer.

I was actually more interested in the recent history of the leper colony than the byzantine fortress so I was a bit disappointed not to be able to see how they had lived on the island. You did get the impression that the island would have been very claustrophobic as it was very tiny, very rocky and there was not really anywhere that the lepers could have grown anything.

There were huge tourist boats arriving on the island – one very large one came just as we were leaving – about 400 people. Our little boat only had 6 of us returning to Plaka which i was pleased about as it felt more authentic.

I was a little disappointed in the fact that evidence of the leper colony had been almost obliterated as that was far more humanly relevant history or me than Byzantine fortresses. I think it is also a bit of an insult to the people who were incarcerated on the island that their history has been almost erased. There is some reference to this time on display boards in some of the buildings but much has been destroyed.
We returned on our small boat to Plaka and enjoyed a drink and a snack in one of the lovely restaurants along the harbour before we set off again in our car towards Knossos.

Despite my slight disappointment I would still recommend a visit to Spinalonga as it has such a long and interesting history and makes a fascinating day trip when staying on Crete. If you go in the summer then be prepared by taking sun screen, hat and plenty of water as there is not a lot of shade and it gets very hot.

Quote: Due to its close proximity to the Blue Palace Hotel, we decided to take an excursion to Spinalonga Island. For 14 Euros per person, we caught a boat at our hotel's dock and sailed Mirabella Bay while enjoying the views of Elounda and Ag Nic. The weather was beautiful and we were served complimentary cocktails on board to enjoy during the sail. After about 45 minutes we sailed towards Spinalonga and were given one hour to explore. At first I thought to myself, how is the going to be enough time? Trust me it was more than enough. Spinalonga is located on the Northeast bay of Elounda where it meets the Gulf of Mirabella. After docking you are required to pay a 2-euro per-person entrance fee. That fee entitles you to explore the island but provides you with no facilities (no bathrooms, water fountains, etc). I found it interesting that the front entrance had a handicap ramp but once inside the entire island was stairs. Impossible to negotiate if handicapped. Almost like what was the point?

Built in 1579 by the Venetians as a fortress and considered the strongest in Crete. Boasting 35 canons, it was considered impregnable. Throughout the 17th century the fortress was a refugee for Christians fleeing the Turks. In 1715 the Turks invaded, a treaty was signed and it remained under Turkish rule until it was turned into a leper colony in 1903 by decree of Cretan law and by the coaxing of Prince George. Leprosy was one of the most feared diseases of the time, believed to be a sign of impurity. These people were viewed and treated like criminals. In 1953 the island was evacuated and it has remained empty/a tourist attraction ever since.

I think the visit would have been more exciting if we had a tour guide. It was hard to appreciate what we were touring considering there was a major lack of information and/or signs around. It has a very ghost town feeling with steps, lots of steps everywhere. With the exception of a few small "rooms" that were open to the public and showcased old documents, pictures and plates - there was really not much information.

At the highest point on the island, the views were pretty but in all honesty the only thing to look at was the Blue Palace hotel and the ocean. We were able to walk around the entire island and still be back at the front meeting area with 15 minutes to spare (as was the rest of the group).

I am sort of confused as to why this island remains one of the largest tourist attractions in Crete. I assume it's partly sheer curiosity and partly because it's so large you assume it has to be incredible once inside. Tours are given daily out of both Ag Nic and Elounda and prices vary. I would recommend this excursion if your tour came with a guide, or if you had a lot of extra time; otherwise put it at the end of your list. I truly believe there are many more exciting things to see here.

Open 7 days a week, except holidays from 8am-7:30pm. Somewhat Recommended.

From journals Crete - Home to Zorba and Zeus

Quote: We can feel the end of our vacation approaching, so we are trying to squeeze everything in that we want to do and relax at the same time--an impossible ambition. After returning to Agios Nikolaos from Chania, we rested up a bit, waited for the weather to warm up, and only did some small trips in the area. On Friday, a friend we made here who is quite knowledgeable and acts part-time as a tour guide accompanied us to a nearby island called Spinalonga. This tiny island sits at the entrance to a small sheltered bay and was converted by the Venetians in 1579 into a fortress to guard the bay from attack. The fortress was eventually conceded to the Turks and although it was never taken by force it was the last bit of Crete to fall to the Turks. For about 300 years it was a Turkish base and a haven for smugglers and traders doing business with Africa and the middle east. When Greece and later Crete gained its independence from Turkey at the end of the nineteenth century this island was still home to a turkish community. Partly as a ploy to get rid of the Turks the Greek government turned the island into a leper colony in 1903. Lepers from Athens hospitals and all other parts of Greece were sent here to live, initially without much more than the clothes on their back. Gradually conditions improved, a hospital was built and modern apartments with electricity and plumbing. The inmates were provided a small pension which at the time far exceeded what the local population earned. In some ways the lepers were the most fortunate inhabitants of the area, enjoying a degree of wealth, security and convenience that was unknown on the mainland. Eventually proper treatment for the disease was discovered in the 1950s, and the inmates were evacuated to facilities in Athens. So when we took the little boat out to the island I was prepared to find a rather dismal place but it is now overgrown with fresh flowers growing like weeds in every crack in the walls and in every bit of earth, so in spite of the massive and imposing stone fortifications and tumble-down remains of the lepers houses it maintains a very lush and beautiful aspect, and of course the sea all around is a perfect turquoise blue.
From journals Journey to Crete

Quote: Spinalonga is an islet that can be reach by boat from Elounda. This islet was first fortified by the Venetians in 1579 to defend the approach to the gulf and proved to be virtually impregnable. The infamous part of the island's history is much more recent for the first 50 years of the 1900s, it was a leper colony, the last in Europe.

There are two entrances into the fort, don't make the same mistake that we did and virtually walk arounf the circumference of the island before finding our way in. Once the boat docks, turn left (NOT RIGHT) and you will find yourself in the old town.

Plan to spend at least two hours touring the site so plan accordingly as there are set times to catch the boat back to Elounda.

From journals playing in King Minos' garden