In Pinar del Rio, I had lunch with a couple from San Francisco who had flown to Cuba via a circuitous route unlike Canadians and Europeans who can fly there directly. The restaurant where we ate was not in the Guide Michelin nor on any official Cuban government sanctioned list. Instead, we had to climb a very steep ladder to the roof of a private home where our al fresco dining experience awaited us. The only difference between this restaurant and any local one in Washington was its location. The food was excellent, and the service was warm and friendly. The cost for an entire meal for six people was only $30. As we sat around the table, joined by a Norwegian and two local Cubans, we discussed politics—-local and international-—in an environment free from the ever present eyes of the Cuban government.