An American on Safari

The Accommodations Were Anything BUT Third World

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We utilized eight lodges or camps in the seven parks visited during our safari. The tented camps (Mara Sarova and Voyager Ziwani) were very authentic to the experience of going on safari back at the turn of the 20th century, with the exception of the bathrooms and outstanding dining facilities.With no locks on the front . . . mmmm . . . tent flaps, and mosquito nets around the beds, it really felt like we were staying out in the wild. While staying at the Voyager in Tsavo West, we were also cautioned to not leave the confines of our quarters after midnight as the power generators would be turned off at that time and the local hippos would make their way onto the property to graze the lush ...Read More

We utilized eight lodges or camps in the seven parks visited during our safari. The tented camps (Mara Sarova and Voyager Ziwani) were very authentic to the experience of going on safari back at the turn of the 20th century, with the exception of the bathrooms and outstanding dining facilities.

With no locks on the front . . . mmmm . . . tent flaps, and mosquito nets around the beds, it really felt like we were staying out in the wild. While staying at the Voyager in Tsavo West, we were also cautioned to not leave the confines of our quarters after midnight as the power generators would be turned off at that time and the local hippos would make their way onto the property to graze the lush green grass. Sure enough, when I got up to use the bathroom at around 3:00am, I could hear SOMEthing outside the bathroom tent window munching. My travel companion Jane said she heard the same thing at some point in the night as well.

Much of the lodging experience was built around meals. Many of the lodges had very extensive buffets, featuring a wide range of choices given the international nature of their clientele. There were some meals that I felt a bit challenged by, mostly because of my general nature to not be very adventurous in my food choices. That said, I never found it difficult to find something good to eat.

My favorite dining was at the lodges that provided a full four course meal ordered off menu. Breakfasts were generally still buffet style, but lunch and dinner were plated service. I found dining in this manner to be far more relaxing, providing for more opportunity for us to have conversation about the day's activities.

Every place we stayed had a swimming pool, and by all accounts from my travel companions, they were in good shape with the exception of one that appeared suspect due to green water. The views from the pool decks were outstanding and provided a wonderful place to relax at the end of a long day.

For me, I didn't find much time for relaxation poolside, however, as I did not skip any of the afternoon game drives in favor of swim time. Others in my group did however enjoy the opportunity to do so.

I found the greatest tranquility at sunrise and sunset, especially at the lodges that provided the vantage point for a great view.

(Yet to come: Look for detailed reviews on each of the lodges & camps we stayed at.)

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A Harsh Safari Reality - Where's Their Next Meal?

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We were fortunate to witness two wonderful life experiences while at the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in Tanzania. These are the things that wildlife shows on National Geographic are made of.The first was that of a pair of lions, presumably a male and his mate sharing a mid morning kill. By the time we arrived on the site, there were some 20 safari vehicles lining the roadside observing out in the distance as the two fed. What was more interesting was the flurry of activity surrounding them, as a pack of some 20-25 hyenas were attempting to take away some morsel to eat. Also, there were a handful of jackals what we were told are allowed to co-dine with lions as they pose no threat to them...Read More

We were fortunate to witness two wonderful life experiences while at the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in Tanzania. These are the things that wildlife shows on National Geographic are made of.

The first was that of a pair of lions, presumably a male and his mate sharing a mid morning kill. By the time we arrived on the site, there were some 20 safari vehicles lining the roadside observing out in the distance as the two fed. What was more interesting was the flurry of activity surrounding them, as a pack of some 20-25 hyenas were attempting to take away some morsel to eat. Also, there were a handful of jackals what we were told are allowed to co-dine with lions as they pose no threat to them. Hyenas however, are another story. The lions defended and chased away lone hyenas as they attempted to steal away something for themselves.

One was successful in getting what appeared to be a leg or some part of one. As the dog-like animal scampered off with its steal, others were chasing behind trying to catch and take away the meal. Eventually, another did catch and take the food away. Curiously, that was the end of the chase as if pack leader, alpha dog was in possession of the food. It went off in an opposite direction to feast on the spoils of victory.

Later in the day after lunch we stumbled upon a cheetah resting in the tall straw like grass. Not seemingly aware of anything around, it stood up and stretched. As it sauntered right to left across the crater floor, its posture changed. It went from taking a stroll to what was clearly a stalking position. Walking, crouching, stopping to lay in the grass . . . the cheetah had it sights on a gazelle some 200 yards off in the distance.

We continued to watch, as our driver repositioned our vehicle moving quite a distance backwards as the cheetah continued to make its way towards a small group of gazelles. We stopped as it stopped. We watched as it watched. I found myself holding my breath as I saw the cheetah go totally flat in the grass. Just 32 seconds later, the cheetah was on the gazelle taking it down to the ground.

It was an amazing feat of speed and hunting prowess that allowed this cheetah to capture its next meal. The gazelle did not go down without fighting, kicking and rolling over on the cheetah with everything it had left inside. In less than two minutes, however, it was over. The gazelle was dead and the cheetah was now catching its breath after what had to be an extreme amount of physical exertion to overtake and kill the prey.

I've read that only about 1:100 safari visitors are witness to a kill. It was an amazing thing to experience first hand. The beauty of the lean cheetah making way across to what was seemingly a totally unsuspecting gazelle, is almost beyond words. The tragedy of the death of the gazelle while sad, is all part of the food chain in the wild. What is more tragic, death by starvation or at the jaws of another?
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The Maasai People

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Kenya has 42 tribes, with the Maasai in their traditional red shuka probably being the most recognized to those from outside of East Africa. Maasai are also found in Tanzania especially in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and surrounding land. We saw a lot of Maasai herdsmen as they moved their cows and goats throughout the countryside in search of pastures for their livestock to graze. I do not believe that throughout our 12 day safari while moving between parks, there was not a single day that we didn't witness the migration of the Maasai with their herd.Their existence is a poor one by most standards, measured in their culture by the number of cows, goats and children they have. Practic...Read More

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Our Time in the Maasai Mara

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Yes it was indeed a whirlwind of an adventure! During our 12 days on safari we visited seven parks . . . four in Kenya and three in Tanzania. When folks head out to Africa, there is an expectation of seeing "the big five" (Elephant, Rhino, Lion, Cape/African Buffalo and Leopard) and we were no different. Amazingly, we got to see four of the five during our first park, a three day visit to the Maasai Mara, home of "the greatest show on earth" - the migration of herds from Tanzania to Kenya in search of greener pastures and food.Because of the vastness of this park, I was glad that we had three days to observe the animals in what would set the standard for game viewing for the rest of the tr...Read More

Yes it was indeed a whirlwind of an adventure! During our 12 days on safari we visited seven parks . . . four in Kenya and three in Tanzania. When folks head out to Africa, there is an expectation of seeing "the big five" (Elephant, Rhino, Lion, Cape/African Buffalo and Leopard) and we were no different. Amazingly, we got to see four of the five during our first park, a three day visit to the Maasai Mara, home of "the greatest show on earth" - the migration of herds from Tanzania to Kenya in search of greener pastures and food.

Because of the vastness of this park, I was glad that we had three days to observe the animals in what would set the standard for game viewing for the rest of the trip. Unfortunate however, because as our guide said, winter in the Mara is a time for feast for all. The wildlife was abundant and in good health. The cycle of life in full swing as hunters hunted and scavengers waited. Grazing animals had plenty to eat and were healthy enough to sustain those who depended on them for their next meal.

We did not have an opportunity to witness an active hunt or kill here in the Maasai Mara, but there were plenty of chances to see animals enjoying the fruits of their labor. None was more spectacular than seeing a pride of 16 lions early one morning dining on a wildebeest kill on the hillside before us.

We did not get to see the much anticipated migration of the wildebeests as they crossed the Mara River. While at the river's edge, we did see what seemed to be thousands looking for the right spot to cross. Unfortunately, some self-drive safari folks decided to drive between the herd and river bank, sending all of the animals away from the crossing points. While not the most famous aspect of "the migration" that people come to see, we were able to see the migration in progress in the Mara several times.

Cheetahs were a very common sighting at the Maasai Mara, including what was believed to be these three young males, most likely brothers. They were seen a couple of times during our game drives, often just lazing away the afternoon under the protection of shade. In this photo it was especially interesting to see how they positioned themselves so as to have a full 360 degree view around them. Perhaps they were scoping out the area for supper.

My time spent in the Mara was not without some harsh reality too. This young lion was obviously injured, as his walk had a noticable limp to it in spite of no outward appearance of injury. He walked ahead of our safari vehicle for some distance before making his way atop a termite hill. There he sat, scanning the area as though to be searching for something. He then began to vocalize a low tone puffy like roar. After doing this for a few minutes, out from the brush about 50 yards ahead, came a beautiful lioness. She responded to his vocalizations with her own very loud and what seemed to be grumpy response. It was an amazing interaction between the two, as though nobody else was around. I felt blessed to have been witness to them. Read Less

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Reflections on my Journey

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Safari: "1890 (attested from 1860 as a foreign word), from Swahili, lit. 'journey, expedition,' from Arabic, lit. 'referring to a journey,' from safar 'journey' (which is attested in Eng. as a foreign word from 1858)." from Online Etymology Dictionary, © 2010 Douglas Harper. My safari was a journey; a journey of not only witnessing the greatness of the cycle of life as experienced by animals in the national parks and conservation areas visited, but also of mankind in an area of the world that is still underdeveloped and struggling. The day-to-day challenges faced by the wildlife is not unlike what the people of Africa also contend with. The search for sustenance as well as providing for ...Read More

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Kenya Journals

An American on Safari

The Accommodations Were Anything BUT Third World

A Harsh Safari Reality - Where's Their Next Meal?

The Maasai People

Our Time in the Maasai Mara

Reflections on my Journey

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